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DIY
ONLINE horn price list
ALL
PRICES ARE IN UK
POUNDS and include
VAT
DISCOUNTED
PRICES DO NOT APPLY IF ORDERS ARE MADE BY MAIL OR
TELEPHONE.
If
you would like to purchase Stick Man Gift
Vouchers please click HERE
See
HERE
for
information on postal price changes.
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Read
about it
Please
note - small packages will normally be
sent by Royal Mail and larger ones by
courier.
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We
can not ship any horn or antler items on this page
outside the UK and EU.
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Special
offer prices only apply when ordering
ONLINE
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Horn and
Antler
It must be
appreciated that all horns and antlers are
naturally grown items and as such there may be
considerable variation between individual
pieces.
True horn is a
thermoplastic and can be heated, bent and shaped to
create wonderful horn handles, but you may need
specialist equipment to use it to its full
potential. Antler is bone and cannot normally be
bent.
If you require specific
sizes or shapes then please make sure you advise us
of these at the time of ordering - we do our best
to provide what our customers want but reading
minds is not our speciality!
As soon as you order anything your order form has a
box for "Additional order information" - please use
it to tell us what you want.
NOTE: Measurements
of horns are made along the outside
curve.
All countries have import
restrictions on "Animal Products" (which includes
'raw horns') to prevent the spread of infectious
diseases. All our horns are acquired legally and
have been disinfected where appropriate. However,
it has been our experience that horns and
unfinished horn products are very likely to be
stopped by Customs outside the EU.
We
can not ship any horn or antler items on
this page outside the UK and EU.
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Black Buffalo
Horn
SORRY,
OUT OF STOCK
from domesticated
Asian Water Buffalo
Solid tips - no large
hollow section! As Rams Horn has become
increasingly difficult to get, buffalo horn has
become more popular. Although predominantly black
when polished, you will often find white flecks or
streaks, also smoky blues and greys will appear in
some horns. Polishes to a high gloss with the use
of metal polish on a cloth - or buy one of our
polishing kits (below) for that really professional
look!
Grade 'A' horns are
selected to be more easily worked with fewer
irregularities, minimum thickness of 1 inch (25 mm)
at the thicker end. No visible defects that would
seriously affect their use for stick handles.
NOTE: Grade 'A' does not mean "perfect" - it
simply implies a better than average quality for
stickmaking uses.
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Grade "B" horns are less
regular in shape, more curled or twisted or thinner
cross section. Some can still be used in
stickmaking but many are more suited to other craft
uses.
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Steel
Jig
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Bending
jig
Welded steel jig for use
with buffalo, cow or ram or goat horn. £42
each.
The jig has a piece welded
to the back which can be held in a vice. You need
to use G clamps to hold the horn in place while
bending (clamps not supplied but available from
most hardware/DIY outlets).
Instruction booklet
explaining the use of the jig and horn bending
technique below.
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How to bend Buffalo
Horn into crooks
Small home-made booklet by
The Stick Man. A detailed step-by-step guide
showing you the 'easy' way to make Buffalo Horn
handles. It includes colour photo's of the
horn-bending jig in use with tips on how best to
make use of it. Only £2.50
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Read
about it
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Special
offer prices only apply when ordering ONLINE
(Not phone
orders)
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Pre-shaped
handles for walking sticks (still
require filing, sanding and
polishing).
Please note that
although these are made to "standard" patterns
there will inevitably be variations in exact
dimensions and coloration of horns. "Perfect"
pieces are rare - so don't expect them to be so.
Many horns will show some fine cracks or streaks of
grey, white, blue or brown and should not be
considered "faults". Personally I think the
perfectly black pieces look a bit too much like
plastic when polished.
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Black
Buffalo
Horn Lyre thumb
stick handle - shaped and smoothed, ready to fit to
a shank - the neck of the lyre is about 25 mm in
diameter. Smooth with fine abrasive and metal
polish to get a shiny finish. The use of a buffing
wheel will give great results! Abrasives and
polishes can be found on the Tools
page, buffing
wheels are lower down the page (Polishing
Kit).
Price: £10.50
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Black
Buffalo
Horn Fork thumb
stick handle - shaped and smoothed, ready to fit to
a shank. You can cut the tips shorter if you wish
or heat and bend them out to open the V. Polish in
same way as the Lyre pattern. Both can look
stunning with a white bone spacer and dark shank -
see my finished thumb
sticks page.
Price: £10.50
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Buffalo Horn
Crook, nose-out
These are not always in
stock as we only make a few at a time.
These have been formed
by heating and bending the solid horn round a jig,
followed by rasping into the rough shape. Some
variation in exact size and shape is inevitable
because they are handmade and the finishing you do
will also determine the final size/shape. They are
designed to fit shanks around 7/8" to 1" at
top.
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Buffalo Horn
Market Stick, nose-in
The Market Stick handle has
the nose turned inwards instead of being curled
out. Roughly shaped for you to
finish.
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Buffalo
Horn Round Handle (long)
As above but with the nose
longer so you can turn it outwards to make a
full-turn nosed crook. Roughly shaped for you to
finish.
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Buffalo horn
Blocks
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Buffalo
horn End Blocks
Sections from the thick
ends of horns, roughly an inch (25 mm) thick and 2
to 4 inches (50 - 100 mm) long. May have a small
depression in one end where the bone was inside the
horn.
Can be cut up for spacers, antler caps, cow horn
caps etc. & useful for all kinds of other craft
projects. Horn cuts quite easily with a small saw
and files and sands like wood.
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Rams
horn
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Some of the bigger horns may
have small holes that have been drilled by the
farmer for tethering rams.
These can be
squeezed shut during routine heating and bulking
and hardly show when finished.
Seriously
damaged and very hollow horns are sold as Craft
Grade for uses other than stickmaking
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Please note that
some of the horns available now still have bone
cores inside.
Prices vary
according to size (measured around the OUTSIDE
curve) and availability so, to make it easier to
order, I've put them into suitable categories for
stickmaking - but please note that exact size and
shape will vary due to differences in the horns
from different sheep breeds. I cannot guarantee
horns to be free from defects - though I do inspect
each one myself - and will only refund money if you
return them BEFORE you start to work on them! You
should, however, expect most horns to have some
cracks, splits or hollows - all of these can be
'worked' upon to produce a usable handle of some
kind but considerable skill is required and some
way of applying heat and pressure is needed to bend
and "bulk" the horn to get the best results.
Some horns are
easier to work than others but even experienced
stickmakers have failures! We can not guarantee any
horn will make a perfect stick. No refunds given
once you've started working a horn.
HORNS ARE FROM
VARIOUS BREEDS OF SHEEP SO COLOURS CAN VARY FROM
PALE CREAM TO ALMOST BLACK.
If you want to
discuss your requirements prior to ordering we
welcome enquiries by email.
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SMALL. (6 to 12"
long with 3" to 8" solid) Possible uses: walking
sticks, ladies sticks, small market sticks and
crooks, Ramscurl sticks, half-heads and small
trout.
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MEDIUM. (10 to 15"
long with 8 to 10" solid - MAY HAVE A HOLE DRILLED
NEAR THE TIP. ) Possible uses: market sticks, small
crooks, Cardigan sticks, Ramscurl sticks,
smaller carved crooks (thistle type),
half-heads and larger trout.
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Large. (16" TO 19"
long with 10" or more of solid horn - MAY HAVE A
HOLE DRILLED NEAR THE TIP. ). Possible uses: Full
sized crooks, carved crooks, half-head
sticks.
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Extra Large (Over
20" long with 15" or more of solid - MAY HAVE A
HOLE DRILLED NEAR THE TIP. ). Very heavy and bulky
for carving birds and animals on a crook. VERY
RARE! (Two in stock)
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Size descriptions are as
for plain horns above.
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JACOB
HORNS
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Picture unavailable at present but
can be curled or nearly straight horns, but black,
often with white stripes.
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JACOB
HORNS
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Picture unavailable at present
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JACOB HORNS
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Pair of horns
matched for size and shape. Colours
vary.
Not best suited to
stickmaking but useful for other craft projects
such as headresses, masks etc. where a nice
matching pair of horns is required.
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Damaged or
hollow horns
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CRAFT
GRADE
Damaged or VERY hollow horns, with cracks and
holes or other damage, making them less suitable
for stickmaking. Still useful for practising with
or decorative purposes and costume/mask making or
for cutting up for other projects. £3.00
each.
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Ewe
Horns (often still
have the bone core inside)
From the female sheep,
usually smaller than horns from the male rams.
Generally around 5 to 8 inches long. These horns
can be used for very simple stick handles or for
various craft projects and costume/mask making.
Some often show coloured dye or heat-markings, used
by farmers to show ownership.
From Only £1
each!
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As above but larger horns,
10" to 16" long.
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Matching Pair
of Ewe Horns
We are frequently asked for
matching pairs of cheaper horns for costume making
or as decorative items so we've taken some time to
match these as closely as possible for size and
shape.
Ewe horns are all basically
crescent-shaped, occasionally with a "flick"
outwards at the tip. You can clean them with a wire
brush or sandpaper and varnish them or paint them
if you want to colour them.
Some often show coloured dye or heat-markings, used
by farmers to show ownership.
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Rams Horn "Backs" -
hollow sections from the open ends of the horns
(may still have the bone core inside.) Useful for
making horn collars or capping material. Can be
cut, heated and shaped to form ears, horns, beaks
etc. on carvings. Also useful for making spoons,
napkin rings, shoe horns or other craft projects.
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Pack of 10
Rams Horn "Backs" as above.
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Examples below
of handles that can
be made from cow horn.
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Cow
Horn NB due
to BSE regulations it is very difficult to get
horns from British cattle but we can usually get a
few!
Most of our cow horns are
useful for making 'knob' type handles. These can
have coins, medals, badges etc. set in the open end
- or capped with horn or wood after filling the
hollow with wood, resin, car body filler or
similar. They are also bought for making masks and
head dresses.
Some of the medium and
large horns are from Longhorn and Highland breeds
and have enough solid material to be heated and
bent into handles - few will make crooks.
Cow horn has the unfortunate property of
'delaminating' while growing and a cross-section
cut will often reveal cracks or fissures which may
need to be heated and squeezed when making bent
handles (similar to 'bulking' ramshorn). Length
stated includes the hollow section where the
bone was. Most of these horns only have around 2 to
6 inches of solid horn at the tip - the rest is
hollow. Many of the smaller ones are hollow almost
to to the tip and may show signs of damage. If you
need to discuss specific purposes please
e
mail me before or
soon after ordering so we send what you are hoping
for.
The bigger
ones can be used for making powder horns, drinking
vessels or hunting horns.
For info on polishing horns or making drinking
horns go here
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Cow Horn
"Backs"
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Cow Horn "Backs" -
sections from the open ends of the horns. Useful
for cutting up for capping material. Can be cut,
heated and shaped to form ears, horns, beaks etc.
on carvings. Also useful for making spoons, napkin
rings, shoe horns, drinking mugs or other craft
projects. Various sizes from around 50 mm to 100 mm
across open ends.
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For abrasives
and tools for stickmaking
look
HERE
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Clear
Plastic Sheet
An
alternative to embedding resin - easier,
cheaper and quicker to use.
Used for setting
coins, badges, fishing flies, pictures, compasses
etc. in cow horn knob handles or in antler, horn or
wooden tops. The plastic is completely clear and
can be filed and sanded before polishing to a
glasslike finish.
Advantages over
embedding resin include:
No smell.
No dangerous chemicals (resin and hardener are
hazardous).
Cheaper to use - only buy what you need - resin
often sets in the tin before you use it all.
No trapped air bubbles.
No waiting for it to set.
No spills or sticky residue.
Doesn't soak in.
Doesn't shatter like resin.
Doesn't react with metals, paper, photos
etc.
Embedding
resin has so many disadvantages that I don't know
why so many people still use it! I'm no longer
stocking it.
For more info
on using the sheet look here
Please
order plastic sheet below:
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Plastic
sheet, 5 cm x 5 cm (2 inch square), thickness
is 4 mm.
It can be cut to any shape with a small saw then
filed and sanded down before polishing smooth.
60p each piece.
If you want a bigger
piece then we also supply it in A5 size (aprox 20
cm x 12.5 cm, that's 8" x 5" EQUIVALENT
TO 10 SMALL PIECES).
For
instructions on using the sheet
look
here
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Laminated
pictures
Packs of assorted small
pictures laminated in plastic. The pictures are
approximately an inch square (25 mm) and can be cut
to shape with scissors to fit into your own
handles. You can set them in wooden or horn handles
if you wish but most people use antler. Cover with
the plastic sheet (above) to make more secure then
file, sand and polish the plastic to a perfect
finish.
The pictures are of
Gamebirds, Working dogs and British wild
mammals.
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Drill bit for
Laminated pictures
25 mm Forstner drill bit
for making flat-bottomed holes in horn or antler or
wood.
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Drill bit for
Laminated pictures
24 mm Forstner drill bit
for making flat-bottomed holes in horn or antler or
wood.
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Fine and
coarse polishing compounds
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Polishing
Kit for
horn, antler, plastic and embedding resin.
Note: The polishing kit is best used after all
scratches have been removed with abrasive tape/mesh
and steel wool (see
Tools).
Set of two polishing
wheels, coarse and fine polishing compounds (one
for each wheel) and a threaded cone mandrel. The
mandrel fits almost any electric drill (including a
bench drill) converting it into a polisher! Use one
wheel with coarse compound to take out fine
scratches left after abrasives - then use the other
wheel with fine compound to polish to a bright
mirror-like shine!
Gently touch rotating wheel
with compound block to apply a fine
coating.
NB use eye
protection with rotating wheels and use on
fairly slow speed for best results. The wheels are
small enough to fit inside most crooks and
market sticks to get to those hard-to-reach
internal curves!
For replacement
compounds and additional polishing options see the
TOOLS
page.
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Read
about it
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Stag
Antler
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Want to know where and how
our antler is obtained? Look HERE
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British Stag
Antler.
Exact shapes vary
but will resemble pictures. Colour may vary from
near white to dark brown. Green staining may show
if naturally shed antlers have been left on grass
for some time. Thickness can vary a lot - from
under 20 mm to over 30 mm.
If you require specific
sizes/shapes/colours we will try to accommodate you
but you must let us know! It's a waste of our
time and yours if we post things out and then you
want to exchange them because they're not what you
wanted!
Most antler is oval in
cross section, making it awkward to fit to sticks
unless a spacer or collar is used - or you use
oval-topped sticks.
Some antler is quite smooth
to the touch, some is very rough. Most will have
some brown coloration which is usually
peat-staining from the hills where the stags live.
Antler is bone - not horn - so cannot be heated and
bent like true horn can be.
Old, naturally shed antlers (those that fall off in
the spring) can lose a lot of colour by becoming
bleached by sunlight. Often you will find one pale
side that's been exposed to sunlight and the other
side is darker where it's been shaded. Antlers from
culled stags are often very dark brown because
they've had no chance to bleach out the
colour.
It's quite feasible to
darken otherwise pale antler by staining or
painting
(Van Dyke Crystals on the SHANKS
page work well ). Whether pale or dark, I find it
best to sand down the surface to reveal some of the
paler bone underneath, giving a mottled or striped
effect. The paler areas polish extremely well,
particularly when buffing wheels are
used.
Antler has gone up in price
over the last few years because a lot of it is now
being sold for dog-chews in pet stores. Personally,
I won't give it to my own dogs because it can be
very hard and brittle and can break into very sharp
spiky pieces!
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Antler Fork
Standard grade
for Thumbsticks.
Less regular in
shape than the grade A. Base of the "neck" often
more oval or narrow, requiring the use of a spacer
or collar to get a good joint with the shank - or
use up those oval-topped or thinner shanks you have
left after you've used all your best ones! These
are more variable in thickness and can go from 20
mm up to 35mm or (rarely) more. Please specify if
you have particular needs.
These are the
most popular antler pieces we sell and will make
very usable (and saleable) handles for working and
hiking sticks.
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Antler Fork
grade "A"
for Thumbsticks.
Fairly regular in
shape and comfortable in the hand. Less "turn" in
the neck of the antler (so the fork is more
upright). More circular in cross section at the
base than the Standard grade antlers, making them
slightly easier to fit shanks to them.
Only a very small proportion of forks are grade "A"
so we can't always keep them in stock. These are
usually from the "top" ends of the antlers so are
mostly narrow at the bases - around 23 to 26mm.
Please specify if you have particular needs.
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Antler Fork
Budget grade.
Irregular in
shape so less easy to fit shanks to them.
Can be used for cheap working sticks where
functionality is more important than classy looks.
Often used as dog chews too - but it's up to you.
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Antler Coronet
(Crown) Handle
Can be fixed to
shank "upright" or you can turn it on its side,
remove point and fix as a horizontal handle. The
horizontal handle will almost always require a
collar of some sort to enable a robust fixing to
strengthen the joint because the cut point is much
thinner. Various sizes available. Please specify if
you have particular needs.
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Antler Coronet
with Double Point (VERY LOW STOCK)
Coronet with two
points (tines) instead of one - you can make some
interesting and spectacular sticks with these. Not
all of these have equal length points, picture is
for illustration only.
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Antler Coronet
Roll
A Coronet piece
where the tine (point) has failed to develop
properly or has grown at the wrong angle and has
been cut/ground level. Use for an upright handle
grip for a hiking stick or wading staff.
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Antler
Roll
Straight (often
slightly curved) section of antler, 4" to 5" long
and around 7/8 to 1" thick. Use for an upright
handle grip for a hiking stick or small wading
staff. Top can be capped with horn and use a spacer
or collar at the bottom end to add length if
required.
Small roll, 2" to
4" long and around 3/4" to 1" thick. Use for a
child's stick handle, showing cane handle etc. or
cut up for other uses.
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Antler Angled
Roll (Wading handle)
Section cut from
a damaged or deformed fork, leaving the top wider
than the bottom and often on a sloping angle. Use
for a hiker or wading staff. Cap the top with horn
or wood for a nice finish.
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Long Roll (for
Priest)
Section around 8"
to 10" long (20 - 25 cm). Used mainly for making
fishing/game priest with one end rounded out and
polished. A lanyard can be fitted to the other end.
These are normally heavy enough not to require
additional weighting but you can add some if
desired by drilling out the thick end and capping
with horn after inserting the lead.
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Antler
Tri-Point
Section from the
tip of an antler where three points have grown
instead of two. These can make interesting and
unusual thumbsticks as no two are exactly alike.
Personally, I prefer to take the tips of the points
off and cap with horn (for safety reasons) but we
generally leave them on for you if they are not
excessively long. As these are from the very tips
of the antlers the bases are usually fairly thin -
around 23-26mm.
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Horn
and bone spacers
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Antler fork
showing horn caps and spacer after fitting
Thick spacers
can be filed flush with the profile of the handle
and shank - or left protruding as a short "barrel"
shape, as below.
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Buffalo horn (black or dark
brown with pale streaks) or white/cream bone slices
for capping stag horn or as spacers between joints.
These can be sawn, filed and sanded to shape and
polished or varnished. Normal thickness is around 5
to 7 mm, double thick horn spacers around 13mm
thick, as below.
Sorry, but we don't drill
the spacers for you.
Note:
When drilling spacers make sure you support them on
scrap wood in the vice otherwise you will
invariable crack some of them! I find it best to
drill half way through from each side - especially
with the bone ones.
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Buffalo Horn small
spacers or caps for antler
Buffalo Horn discs, smaller
than the spacers above, can be used for spacers on
thinner shanks or for capping smaller antler forks,
approx. 26 mm diameter and 5 to 7 mm
thick.
Colour is usually black or
dark brown with pale streaks.
NOTE: These caps may
have an oily coating which must be sanded or filed
off before gluing on to your antler - just sand the
bottom side so the glue will stick!
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File and sand smooth then
polish to a glossy shine! Example above.
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Cow Horn
Spacers
(small)
Cow Horn discs, spacers for
thinner shanks or for capping smaller antler forks,
approx. 23 to 26 mm diameter and 5 to 7 mm thick.
Colours vary but normally translucent cream with
flecks or bands of brown or black.
NOTE: These caps may
have an oily coating which must be sanded or filed
off before gluing on to your antler - just sand the
bottom side so the glue will stick!
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Horn off cuts
For cutting into caps for
antler handles. Assortment of horn slices and off
cuts depending on what we have in stock,
approximately 150 gms in each pack. Enough for
dozens of antler thumbsticks.
Also useful for various
craft projects.
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Antler points - Pack
of ten small points (1" to 3" long) for
making key rings, light pulls, zip pulls or small
whistles. £ 3.00
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Pack of two large antler
points (3" to 6" long) for larger whistles,
knife handles etc. £2.60
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Extra Large Antler point
(approx. 6" to 10" long and usually curved) for
knife handles etc.
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Antler Craft Pieces
- Pack of assorted small sections for
making small collars, cutting up for caps, making
buttons, beads, key rings, pendants - or anything
else you can think of! Approx. 250g per pack.
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Antler
collars
Roughly cylindrical
sections of antler with some of the core drilled
out. You may need to file and sand the collars to
get the best fit for your own sticks.
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Roe
Buck antlers
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Spike Roe
Buck antlers
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Roe
Buck antlers attached
to skull plate. OUT OF
STOCK
A pair of antlers still
attached to the top of the skull - the skull has
been cleaned and bleached so it can be drilled and
mounted on a base or straight onto a wall, either
as a decoration or as a hat rack! I have two left
that are already mounted on wooden "shields" for
the same price if you'd like one (use the Technical
info text box).
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Read
about it
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The Stick Man
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